Hi Gents,
I know many are anxiously awaiting the posting of the my final review. I had attempted to log in several times over the weekend to post it, but was unable to do so. I imagine some of you guys had the same problem. Anyway the skinny on the matter is I feel it would be better to answer all the questions that have been thrown at me over the last week or so in a piecemeal fashion as quickly as I can, rather than post a long review that wouldn't be up for several days and as such risk having a lynching posse hot on my heels (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) . When answering questions I'll obvioulsy expand on the subject where I have relevant info, I'll do this as much as possible.
Hey loser,
I spent a fair bit of time playing with the motorized lens zoom and found it to be quite easy to make small adjustments in either direction. Yes, if you hold the arrow keys on the remote control down for more than just a brief second the internally generated test pattern will increase/decrease in size rapidly, however very small adjustments can be made by just tapping the appropriate key quickly. I had no problems whatsoever picking a spot on my screen wall beyond the dimensions of my screen surface and hitting that spot time after time. Basically hold the appropriate button down until you're almost at the desired picture size, then with quick taps on the remote key you can dial it in precisely, presto!
Unfortunately there are no numbers or coordinates to aid the user when using the zoom on a regular basis as is required with a "poor man's" CIH setup. That being said the internally generated test pattern should do just fine once you have figured out your stopping points for both your 1.78:1 and 2.35:1 picture sizes.
It's worth mentioning that I felt both the motorized lens shift and more importantly lens focus behaved in a likeable manner too. The method outlined above works just fine for lens shift and suprisingly poses no problems when attempting to adjust the focus of the lens for it's optimum clarity. In the past I have meticulously focused my HD1 by assessing the crispness of indivdual pixels and the contrast of the inter-pixel spacing whilst eyeballing the screen, the motorized focus of the VW60 allowed me to do just that, however there was no need to go back and forth between screen surface and focus ring to achieve the optimum result, sweet!
For those guys wanting to achieve the absolute best focus the lens is capable of I found that eyeballing the text and arrow keys as illustrated on the lens focus adjust pattern will allow you to squeeze every last drop of detail out of this bad boy. Whilst being slightly off screen centre the aforementioned text and arrow keys are shown as a lighter shade of green compared to the rest of the pattern. This helps distinguish the sharpness of indivdual pixels within the pattern and also increases the contrast bewteen adjacent pixels and the inter-pixel gap. Simply, you want to have the edges of individual pixels to be as defined as possible and the inter-pixel gap to be as contrasted(dark) when compared to the adjacent light green pixel as possible, nothing could be easier (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) .
Onto a matter which I'm sure a lot of you are very interested in which is the clarity or sharpness of the image, in particular when compared to my HD1. I mentioned earlier in the thread that the image the VW60 threw was sharper than my HD1 and not just by a whisker either. Indeed it is. It's hard to qualify by how much so as it's dependant upon the source material more often than not. We all know that not every HD DVD is capable of the same level of crispness or image detail that King Kong, U-571 or The Departed can deliver as an example. Thus far the best disc I have in my HD DVD library with respect to clarity and perceived sharpness is King Kong. It delivers gobs of fine detail and in a big way. The HD1 looks very good when playing this disc, but the VW60 is just that bit better. Some of the closeups throughout the film look superb, the detail of the characters face's, with respect to wrinkles, skin pores and even beard stubble for that matter looked incredibly realistic and that was only on Naomi Watts (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) . That's not to say the same scene on the my HD1 looks soft and lacking in visible detail by comparsion, nothing could be further from the truth. It's more a case of the VW60 taking it to the next level. Texture that was visible on various objects in the foreground looked more realsitic than ever before, the word tactile comes to mind. Sure the HD1 has delivered the same feeling at times but the VW60 does it better still and with more frequency.
I should note that I feel this is attributed to the excellent panel convergence my unit exhibited OOTB more so than any significant differences in lens quality between the two. The superb factory convergence in conjuction with the panel alignment feature resulted in an alignment of all 3 panels far better than I would have thought possible with a 3 chip projector. Perhaps I was lucky enough to score a cracker, but I doubt it as the review unit was brand new and unopened upon delivery. I believe Sony Australia simply designated a few units of their first shipment for review and I scored one, I can't imagine that the powers that be would have known I'd going over VPL-VW60 serial # 2000140 with such close scrutiny. IIRC I mentioned that I'd corrected the panel convergence on my unit by + 0.3 for both blue horizontal and vertical, red was left untouched. After further inspection and this time only looking at the 1080p white circlehatch pattern on DVE HD DVD I pushed blue to + 0.4 for both horizontal and vertical planes, red was changed to - 0.2 in the vertical direction. The use of the internally generated pattern is quite handy as one can simply align red to reference green and then blue to reference green, as such red should now also be aligned to blue. However I felt for those who must tweak (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) , such as I, displaying the previously mentioned circlehatch pattern then throwing up the the panel alignment menu allows you to make a very small change then save it by hitting set. This will then bring your circlehatch pattern back up which allows for a quick assessment of what that 0.1 or 0.2 correction has done in the real world using a pattern delivered by your source machine and not an albeit useful bit an internally generated pattern nonetheless.
Summing up the additional sharpness and detail resolved when viewing the VW60 in comparison to my HD1 which has good to quite good panel convergence is more a function of the alignment of the 3 panels rather than a particularly nice lens employed by Sony on the VW60. It makes me wonder how crisp the VW200 could look with the use of its 144 zone point convergence and more importantly the addition of much touted Carl Zeiss optics, look out Marantz 11s1 and the like. Oops, I know I opened a can of worms there. Please don't flame me and make the effort to point out that a 3 panel projector will never match the clarity of a single chip projector over the entire screen because of ... etc. This is just speculation on my part as I'm very impressed with what the VW60 can do with an average lens and it's superb panel alignment feature. I'd expect the Zeiss lens not to exhibit any CA as you move towards the screen peripheral nor will there be a slight softening of the image across the very upper or lower portions of the screen induced by lens shift as I discovered with my unit.
That's all for now folks, I hope this was a worthy update to an already interesting thread. Also I trust you guys won't be too annoyed if I cover all the points I was going to mention in my final review in a piecemeal fashion as I have done here. Geez, who could manage to read through a review of such length anyway without taking a week of leave or two to do so (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) .
Cheers,
Jus.