Tema: Proyector | Panasonic PT-AE700

para los afortunados que le metéis horas a la lámpara... sabe alguien a cuánto se cotiza la lámpara?
aquí la tienen (más barata que la del pana 500, por cierto)

www.pricejapan.com/PriceJapan_com.htm

ya sé que está en el quinto pino... pero...(a ver si encuentro un post viejo donde explicaba cómo y cuánto venía a costar).
es un sitio muy fiable... varios foreros han comprado allí y el ahorro parece que compensa.

</p>

Weno Weno, pues creo (no estoy seguro del todo) q este mes voy a pedir Smart III, con lo cual por fin podre analizar este proyector q tan enamorados nos tiene, ademas de otros 2 de amigos.
Ya os contare.

</p>

AE700 & Filter & Denon 2900





</p>

He conseguido el Service Manual del panasonic PT-AE700E, son 215 páginas y es bastante interesante. Ahora se que tiene un puerto serie oculto para actualizaciones de firmware, pero hace falta un interface de conexión y un programa (Adjustment Tool) para manejarlo. Viene cómo desmontarlo, ajustarlo, modos de servicio, sustitución de lámpara, ajuste de convergencias, vertical banding, etc. Por supuesto, trae todos los esquemas electrónicos, listado de componentes y guía de fallos más comunes.
Se puede descargar en pdf y vale 15$ (11 euros) en getmanual.com

</p>

Si, lei hace 4 o 5 semanas un post (no recuerdo en q foro extrajero fue) de como construir y conectar el cable al proyector, habia planos y varias imagenes ilustrativas, pero lo vi bastante, bastante complicado y no lo postee porque imagine q nadie se querria poner abrir el proyector y soldar cables.
si a alguno le interesa, lo busco,o bueno si quiere bajarse el PDF de la pagina q ha posteado el compañero q lo haga.


Un saludo <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/hola.gif ALT=":hola">

</p>

Texto resumen interesante:

<blockquote>Quote:<hr>Page 19 of the manual (Setting the display format).

1. Press Display Format button to select your connection (DVI, RGB, comp. etc). It cycles each time you press the button.
2. Press the Select button to accept your connection.
3. Press the Display Format button to cycle through all the possible output format res. (1080i, 720p, 480p, etc) This depends on the connection. See page 19 for list.
4. Press select to accept.

After tweaking all screens for minimal flicker, I've found that 2 screens in service mode help check your settings. When you enter service mode, the first screen is just flat bright white. Hit the up button on the remote to go to the first screen up, if flicker is a little off this white lined screen will flicker. The next screen up has horizontal lines and does not flicker easily but the next one up (3 button presses up from service default) after that which I think shows individual pixels and is effective for sharpest focus also has a tendency to flicker when the flicker settings are off. If these screens are showing flicker, and you then toggle between the red, green and blue screens by hitting the left or right buttons, you will see that the green is usually the one flickering. If they flicker, go into flicker mode, tweak and recheck.

After watching a movie, you are not "required" go into standby mode. The projector lamp and fan can stay on as long as you need them to be on. If you want to shut it down, you can turn the projector off using the remote or the top-panel button on the PJ. Once turned off via either method, the lamp goes out and the fan still runs to cool it down. Then the fan shuts off automatically when the temp is low enough. At this point you are in "standby mode." There is a red LED on the top panel that is lit to tell you this. No lamp power, no fan, but the projector is ready to accept commands from the top panel or the remote.

At this point, you can reach around to the back of the PJ and turn off a hard switch to kill power to the PJ completely, or you can do the same via a power surge strip, a switched wall outlet, or just unplugging it. In this "power off at the mains" mode, the PJ is completely off and unresponsive to any commands.

This is the status that many owners must leave the PJ in, to ensure no problems with VB upon powering back on. Some owners have reported that they do not need to do this power off at the mains and that VB is minimal or non-existent even when they leave in standby mode for several hours.

As far as I know, the competitive projectors to the AE700 can be left in standby without VB or other problems.

Even though this "VB with standby" issue for me has become a serious annoyance and inconvenience, I would not trade the AE700 in for the Sony HS51 or Sanyo Z3. The main advantages of the AE700 for me are the smooth screen technology coupled with the highly room-flexible 2x zoom lens and lens shifting mechanism that gives an overall winning value package for a home theater high-def projector.


I have Memory #3 on the 700 set up specifically for B&W films. I have the color adjusted all the way down and the temp at -1. I think I also turned the "Red Brightness" down to -3 in the advance menu. These settings also help (a little) with the color uniformity issues mentioned in previous posts. Now - when I watch a B&W film I just click on memory #3 and I'm good to go.

The AE700 automatically "upconverts" 480i/p internally to 720p for display on its native 1280x720 panels.

Tweaks
(Just remember to record the values you started with from the factory so you can go back if needed.)
1. Flicker tweak. Get into the options menu and highlight OSD. Hold down the enter button for 3 seconds to get into the service menu Once you are there, highlight the flicker tweak and hit enter. You will see the screen go to different colors as you hit the up or down button. A value will be at the bottom of the display that can be adjusted right or left. Every projector is different so adjust until you see the least flicker in each one of the color modes. This tweak has a lot of positives in eliminating many erroneous artifacts like peekaboo scanlines and vertical banding. I want to emphasize older PlayStation2s seem to have a problem with the AE700 in showing massive VB when in progressive mode. My simple fix was to turn off the progressive scan on the PS2 altogether. It totally eliminated the VB. I feel the upscale from the projectors scaler is almost as good as the progressive scan from the ps2. This seems to be working for some old DVD players as well.

2. Sharpness adjustment. Get into the service menu the same way and hit the service menu button. The up, down, left and right buttons will scroll through colors and adjustment screens. I found the crosshatch pattern in white to work the best for adjusting the sharpness. Get as close as you can to the screen or have someone help you at the screen. Turn the focus on the projector ring until it becomes perfectly sharp. If you want to defocus slightly for any screen noise, that is fine too. I personally find that setting the sharpness in the main picture menu to -2 does a better job at giving you a more filmlike picture without losing subtle details. If you notice a small amount of red or or blue fringing, that is probably normal. Mine at 110" was less than a couple mm in red fringing. It does not affect the picture on any regular source.

3. The most accurate colors (for movies) with the least effort can be achieved by using "Natural" picture mode with color temperature set to -1.

You can access the service menu by:
Press Menu->Option
highlight "OSD"
Hold "ENTER" down for 3 seconds

There is an entry in the service menu called "Service Mode" which provides many helpful test images. They can be used to check for stuck & dead pixels, as well as panel alignment and other potential problems. [NOTE: There is also a second service menu which can be accessed by holding down "ENTER" for three seconds while the "Pic Shift" selection is highlighted in the first service menu. The limited settings in that menu do not seem as useful.]

FIRMWARE. Panasonic has released new firmware. Version 1.05 and higher fix several known problems. You can check your firmware version in the service menu under 'Self Check'.

The service menu differences between firmware 1.03 and 1.05 are underlined below:
FREEZE MSG (on)
HD OVERSCAN (off)
RUNTIME PRT (on)
FAN FULLMODE (off)
AUTO SETUP (normal)
SELF CHECK
SERVICE MODE
FLICKER ADJ
SD LEVEL (c)
525p OS (off)
HDCP1 (a)
HDCP2 (on)

Flicker tweak. This tweak is a response to vertical banding (VB) problems. VB consists of translucent vertical lines across your screen (like jail bars). They are often more noticeable when the content you are projecting consists of large, lighter, solid colors. In movies, VB could become apparent in a scene where smoke, fog, or sky fills the screen.

Look for "FLICKER ADJ" in the service menu. Settings vary unit to unit, but several people have experienced improved (lessened) VB after LOWERING the default flicker values even if you do not see flickering on them in this service menu. Make sure you adjust for the mode you are using, or all modes (desk/ceiling). My settings are Red&Blue=23, Green=26.

You can further reduce VB by switching the power off on the unit when you are done using it instead of leaving it in standby. Several theories have been proposed to explain why cutting the power lessens or eliminates VB, but no one is 100% sure why it works. I have hard wired my projector to a wall switch for this very purpose. VB can be reduced by powering down your 700 completely by using the master on/off switch (or by some other means). In doing this, along with switching to an interlaced signal - VB has been reduced (in my case) to just an occasional minor annoyance. VB was my only major complaint with the 700.

Several people have suggested scenes in movies to test your unit for VB problems. I have found nothing better/simpler than projecting a full screen solid color - several colors are good for this, I use a bluish gray, RGB=58/110/165

[NOTE: Many users have reported that "flicker" and also "VB" stabilize over time. After 200 hours I can confirm similar observations on my unit. There is less flicker and less VB now than when the unit was newer.]

Overscan is a problem for both VGA and HDMI inputs but can be easily eliminated with tweaking on the VGA input, and possibly eliminated on the HDMI input IF you have firmware version 1.05 or higher(?) - early reports say this is not the case however.

Using the Video setting and a filter you can obtain a much higher contrast ratio and overall brightness while maintaining accurate colors. Without a filter and in Normal/Cinema1 the highest contrast ratio I've measured is 900:1 even with the dynamic iris. In Video mode with a filter, you can reach 2000:1 as per Cine4home.com's calibration.

My spreadsheet tells no lies. You enter three parameters only: current screen size, current throw, and proposed new throw. The spreadsheet then tells you in plain English how much brightness you lose or gain from the relocation. As the examples above show, it's quite stunning how much efficiency you can lose (or gain) from just a small move.

Move the pj a couple of feet closer if you can, because you have the contrast enhancing filter disable dynamic shutter, switch to high lamp mode, use DYNAMIC or VIDEO MODE, increase contrast rather than decrease brightness when cutting out the pink from the filter, use the souped-up output from your DVD player and you've turned night into day. Note that moving the pj 2 feet closer is almost equal to going from LOW to HIGH lamp mode. Adjusting the colors is greater in affecting brightness (at least in this instance) than changing lamp modes.

Here are the "AussieBob" dynamic settings I used with my "Light Salmon" Lee filter.

PICTURE MENU

PICTURE MODE: DYNAMIC
CONTRAST: +4
BRIGHT: 0
COLOR: -4
TINT: 0
SHARP: -4
COLOR TEMP: 0
DYNAMIC IRIS: ON

ADVANCED MENU

GAMMA HIGH: 0
GAMMA MID: +3
GAMMA LOW: +3
CONTRAST R: -10
CONTRAST G: 0
CONTRAST B: 0
BRIGHT R: -5
BRIGHT G: 0
BRIGHT B: 0

Lee filters information can be obtained from www.leefilters.com. The US site is www.leefiltersusa.com. Look up the closest dealer in your area. I found nearby dealers that I can buy from or order from. You can ask for a free filter swatch book from Lee or any Lee dealers and they'll send it to you for free. I got the swatch book but it didn't have Light Salmon, only Pale salmon. A sheet (18"x18"??) of Light Salmon #109 was $5.50. You only need a tiny portion of that sheet. I also bought a 77mm Cokin adapter and filter holder for ~$13 on ebay. The 77mm ring fits exactly to the AE700 and the filter holder slides onto the ring.

Lamp life up to 3000 hrs.
Replacement lamp cost: $360.00

This projector is virtually noiseless. We had people sitting 1 foot away and could not hear anything.
The I/O switch kills the power right as it enters the unit...same as unplugging the cord or cutting off the power outlet with a wall switch. You must wait until the fan stops (Standby begins when fan stops) to kill the power whichever way you want to (back panel I/O switch, switched wall outlet, power surge strip, unplugging, etc.)

AVWH settings, using Avia and B&W filter:
Lamp: High
Mode: Video
Contrast: +12
Bright: -15
Color: -11
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +1
Color Temp: On
Dynamic Iris: On

Advanced Menu:
Gammas: 0
Contrast:
R: 0
G: +5
B: +4
Bright:
R: -2
G: -2
B: -3


EXT options 2 - service menu:
Press OSD for 5 sec (Now you are in EXT options 1)
And then press PIC.SHIFT for 5 sec (Now you are in EXT options 2)
Then you get 4 new options, which includes an iris option.

"color Beseler" "Anti-Static Cloth works like a charm to clean the AE lens. Not only does it remove the dust, but it somehow gives it an antistatic property, which repels dust. In reading the literature that came with the cloth, it includes cleaning lenses as one of the things it’s intended to do.

Since the dust filter slides out of the bottom of the AE700, I decided to make an access hole in my shelf. This means I can remove and clean the filter every 100 hours (per the manual) without disturbing the PJ alignment. Saves a lot of time and hassle by not having to re-align the PJ after every cleaning.
<hr></blockquote>

</p>

Para la gente q no tenga el filtro, llega una calibracion con SMART III del Pana700 SIN filtro:

AE700 –<span style="text-decoration:underline"> NO FILTER </span>– SMART III Calibrated Settings

I’ve seen some settings from people using various filters, but I haven't seen any from people without filters, so I thought I’d post some. Let me know how these work for you.

I plan on adding to this thread as I complete more calibrations.

First up – NORMAL Mode

I perform all calibrations with Dynamic Iris OFF, and then turn it back on after calibrations are complete.

I used the AVIA DVD, and therefore the following grids are slightly skewed (points don’t line up exactly on each IRE) due to the IRE bug on the DVD.

Unless otherwise specified, all values on the unit were kept at default. HIGH LAMP Mode was used.

NORMAL Mode
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


BEFORE

Cont +2, Brit 0
Color -9, Tint +3
Color Temp 0

Contrast R 0
Contrast G 0
Contrast B 0
Bright R 0
Bright G 0
Bright B 0





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


AFTER

Cont +4, Brit 0
Color -9, Tint +3
Color Temp 0

Contrast R 0
Contrast G -10
Contrast B -9
Bright R -4
Bright G 0
Bright B -5






Gamma ended up at 2.17
Contrast ratio - 401:1 (iris off); Dynamic Contrast ratio (iris on) - 1,203:1
(projector is ceiling mounted ~12' from my 16:9 106" diagonal screen)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Ya teneis una config perfecta todos los q no querais comprar el filtro, o no lo tengais todavia.
Espero comentarios y opiniones de la gente q la pruebe.
Daysu <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/juggle2.gif ALT=":malabares"> tu q siempre t apuntas a todas.



Un cordial saludo

</p>

Otra config medida con SMART III por el gran Djbluemax1:


<blockquote>Quote:<hr>Well, here's a bit of an update with regards to my free filter tweaking attempts. It's taken longer than I thought and I still haven't completed my research yet.

First off, the equipment I'm using:
AE700U (of course) with 300 hours on the bulb in low mode.
Denon 2910 (black output set to Normal, 7.5IRE)
via HDMI
106" Da Lite High Power
calibrations with Smart III ver2.0 and Avia disc

The first thing I should note is that I really should have tried this when I had Colorfacts. It would have been a lot easier and faster. I didn't realize just how many measurement runs I would end up having to make and as I said, I still haven't completed my research yet. I thought I could use some shortcuts, but it turns out that the shortcuts didn't work too well.

Methodology:

A projector's contrast ratio is obviously the difference between its maximum light output at 100IRE and its lowest output at 0IRE hopefully/optimally at D65 throughout.

There are basically two ways to filter tweak a projector. One is to measure the default modes at default settings to find the one with the highest contrast and a decent gamma curve and to see if there is a spectral irregularity with the output (like the red deficiency of UHP bulbs). Then find a filter that closely attenuates the irregularities in that mode and finish off by tweaking the settings to get as close to D65 as possible and retain a decent gamma curve.

The alternative method is to try tweaking all the primaries so they are completely maxed at either end for highest output at 100IRE and lowest at 0IRE and then try to find a filter that can attenuate these maxed out figures.

What I tried is method 2 and it requires far more work than method 1. I first began with the 3 brightest modes, Video, Normal and Dynamic. Since I wanted to tweak for maximum contrast, I figured I could just skip the initial step of measuring the default settings of the modes and go straight to measuring all the different color temperature settings of each of the three modes with the RGB contrast maximized and the RGB brightness minimized. with the Smart III system, that meant taking 33 individual readings (11 readings from 0-100IRE for R, G and B) for each color temp setting at 5 settings for each of the 3 modes. Yup, 495 individual measurements with some measurments taking up to 30-45 seconds to settle.

After tabulating all the measurment runs with Smart III, I then analyzed each of the 15 runs to find the highest RGB output at 100IRE and the lowest output at 0IRE. I also looked at the gamma curves and the color balance to see which setting in which mode offered the best opportunity for filtering.

What I found was that the color temp settings made some significant changes to the RGB output and the way the changes were made differed between the modes and between the color temp settings. The results were not linear and made my task quite a bit more difficult. I also discovered some weird gamma curves in the different modes, with Dynamic showing some of the worst gamma curves as noted before.

Realizing that the non-linearity meant I needed more info I then ended up having to make the measurement runs at the default settings too, just to see what the default gamma curves and color distribution looked like in comparison and with these I was able to begin to see how maxing the primaries affected the color distribution and the gamma curves. After taking all these measurments it showed that Dynamic mode has the highest default contrast and brightness but the color balance was terrible and none of the color settings could help. Depending on the color temp, different primaries were already maxed out making it very difficult to achieve a smooth gamma curve or uniform color balance/imbalance. I tried, but as yet haven't been able to tame the Dynamic mode.

After more experimentation (I had been using low lamp mode for the extended lamp life) I tried a few measurments with High lamp mode and found a significant jump in contrast. High lamp mode not only increases the headroom of all the primaries at 100IRE, it inexplicably results in lower 0IRE readings with all other settings being the same except for the lamp mode. I can't understand this but after taking readings again and again, the results were continually repeated. High lamp mode allows the primaries to be maxed up to 25% more and also seems to lower the lowest output by a fraction at 0IRE. Great, now I had to make the measurement runs all over again. I had also started out measuring with Dynamic Iris off, but was now measuring with DI: On to take into account the changes it made to the gamma curves. I discovered that at low lamp mode gamma at the higher IRE's was already deficient. There simply isn't enough headroom at higher IRE's for low lamp mode so if you want maximum contrast, you have to use High lamp mode.

I concentrated on the next brightest mode Normal, since I had already tweaked Video mode with the Lee #152 Pale Gold filter. Finally after trying quite a few different advanced settings and setting changes with the different color temps, I managed to tweak Normal at color temp +2 to a point where it was even enough to filter. For a mode and setting to be optimal for filtering, It needs to have an even color imbalance across the IRE range and a good gamma curve. If I tried to filter a mode that had a 40% blue push at 0IRE, 10% blue push at 40 IRE and 25% at 100IRE, no matter what filter I used, some part of the IRE range would be off (and yes, many modes and color temps exhibited this uneven color imbalance).

Well, after tweaking all the settings I looked for a filter that could tweak out 25% G and 20%B. The Roscolux #4518 CalColor 15 Pink looked like a perfect match and when I tried it, the color balance was pretty much tuned across the board.

My settings with this filter,


Roscolux #4518 CalColor 15 Pink

Lamp: High

Contrast 0
Brightness 0
Color -9
Tint +2
Sharpness -6

Color Temperature: +2
Dynamic Iris: On

Advanced Settings:

Gamma High: 0
Gamma Mid: -1
Gamma Low: -1
Contrast Red: 5
Contrast Green: 2
Contrast Blue: 1
Brightness Red: -16
Brightness Green: -7
Brightness Blue: -16


At these settings, both R and B primaries were completely maxed out at 100 IRE. Another thing to note is that the RGB brightness settings will continue to decrease light output at 0IRE (and across all other IRE's too) all the way down to the -16 setting. While the -16 setting can result in a fourfold reduction of output at 0IRE, the 0 setting does NOT result in a fourfold increase in output at 100IRE. The difference in light output from 0 to -16 RGB Brightness setting only decreases output at 100IRE to about 80% but at 0IRE, it decreases it to 25%. This of course increases the CR a substantial amount. The green settings though were set to even the color imbalance to 25% across the board. While the -16 G setting would have lowered the readings at 0IRE, they would have caused a marked lack of green all the way up to 50IRE. Lowering the Gamma Low setting decreased the 0-30IRE measurements by close to 30% and lowering the Gamma Mid helped even out the gamma curve so it wasn't deficient at the 70-100IRE range the way it is with either the default settings or ANY low lamp setting I measured. Lowering Gamma Mid and Low doesn't change the gamma at the higher IREs.

The gamma curve is decent but not as smooth as I would like it. as I mentioned earlier, I'm still not done. there are a few things I intend to try to see if there is any possibility at all of tweaking Dynamic mode. and given enough time, I intend to revisit Video mode to see what else is possible there. Each of the different modes has a tendency to max out a different primary sooner than the others. Red is still the limiting factor but with different color temp settings, this can change to Green or Blue, so when I find more time, I'm going to try more tweaking.

Oh, and the CR? 2350:1 rounded off down.<hr></blockquote>


<img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/birra.gif ALT=":birra"> <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/birra.gif ALT=":birra"> <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/birra.gif ALT=":birra">

Y seguimos subiendo y subiendo: Contraste 2350:1 <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/palomitas.gif ALT=":palomitas">
esperemos nuevos analisis q esta haciendo, para ver la evolucion.
Con gente asi, no hace falta ni tener SMART III <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/laugh4.gif ALT=":lol"> <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/laugh4.gif ALT=":lol">
Nos dan todo mascado para explotar al MAXIMO nuestro fantastico proyector <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/love.gif ALT=":amor"> <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/love.gif ALT=":amor">

</p>Editado por: <A HREF=http://p216.ezboard.com/bmundodvd43132.showUserPublicProfile?gid=gn0m4>Gn0 m4</A>* fecha: 27/3/05 22:10

por lo bien que me lo hace pasar <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/laleche.gif ALT=":laleche"> debería de cantar cumpleaños feliz <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/laugh3.gif ALT=":DDD"> <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/happy2.gif ALT=":DD"> D<img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/laugh3.gif ALT=":DDD"> . Pero justo hoy, que ha cumplido 100 horas, he vuelto a tener por tercera vez el mismo problema.
Sin venir a cuento veo la imagen por triplicado o cuadruplicado, no se, es como si las tres lentes de las que dipone enfocaran cada una para un lado, a lo mejor estoy diciendo una tonteria <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/apaleao.gif ALT=":apaleao"> . Lo apago, dejo que se apage el ventilador, lo enciendo y se vuelve a ver bien pero, al ser la tercera vez que me pasa estoy bastante mosca <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/cry.gif ALT=":cry"> . ¿Algien sabe a que puede ser debido? ¿A algien le ha pasado lo mismo? Por calentarse no puede ser puesto que aun no llebaba ni una hora de peli.
Agradecería alguna respuesta

</p>

<blockquote>Quote:<hr>Con gente asi, no hace falta ni tener SMART III <hr></blockquote>

Sigues dando información engañosa. La calibración que ha hecho una persona (por cierto, después de cerca de 500 mediciones; un trabajo realmente meritorio) es válida para su unidad, y el uso en otro proyector es muy posible que dé una colorimetría y/o una gamma incorrectas.

</p>

Ahora que lo mencionas, a mi me ha ocurrido algo parecido. La imagen se pone triplicada en horizontal, pero lo he solucionado apagando el DVD y no el proyector. Por eso pensaba que era cosa del reproductor. ¿Has probado si desaparece apagando el DVD? ¿Qué reproductor usas? ¿Cómo lo tienes conectado?

</p>

lo tengo conectado por componentes a un sony.
La proxima vez probaré a apagar el dvd pero creo que no será pues cuando veia la imagen triplicada encenci la tele (lo tengo por euroconector tambien a la tele) y en la tele se veía bien.

</p>

Hola, a mi tb se me puso la imagen por triplicado....lo tenia conectado a un dvd sony por s-video, tuve que apagary volver a encender el dvd para que se volviera a ver bien....
Todavía no se si es problema del dvd o del proyector....
Un saludo.

</p>

He estado buscando por los foros y he encontrado que no somos los únicos a los que les pasa esto. Está descrito con entrada por componentes y por supervideo. Se trata de una pédida de sincronismo al parecer por un defecto del software. Esto es lo que dice uno:

Yes!!!!!!!
Thankyou I am not alone after all.
My projector had this problem from day one on component via DVD and STB.
It can be fixed by turning off the amp or dvd player too and rebooting rather than the projector .
Panasonic want me to take my machine in to be test run but it could happen in 10 minutes or 10 days so I'm not too keen to let them put that many hours on it.
As it happened from new I feel they should give me a new unit

Se soluciona apagando el DVD, no el proyector pues no es bueno para la lámpara. Por eso pasaba por euroconector. El problema lo tiene realmente el Panasonic que pierde el sincronismo de la imagen y al reiniciar el DVD lo recupera. Seguiré investigando a ver qué arreglo tiene esto.


</p>

Sigo viendo en los foros este problema, más frecuente de lo que parece. Dicen que cambiando la entrada con el mando del proyector se corrige sin tener que apagar el DVD. Es decir, si lo estás viendo por componentes y te aparece la triple imagen cambias con el mando a video y después otra vez a componentes y se resuelve. Tal vez necesitemos un cambio de firmware. El mío es el 1.03

</p>

¿como puedo ver cual es el mio?
¿como lo puedo actualizar?
¿donde lo puedo consegir?
Ya se que son muchas preguntas pero es que estoy pegao

</p>

Para actualizar el Firmware en casa: Click

Leete todas las paginas, porque es muy interesante, y si bien a primera instancia parece muy complicado, despues no lo es tanto.
Aun asi, el grado de incertidumbre lo tendras, mas para la gente q no tenemos altos conocimientos de electronica.



</p>

Weno, ¿entonces alguien se moja y actualiza el firmware?
Yo por el momento sigo disfrutando de la Alta Resolución como un enano.

HD Ready <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/smoking.gif ALT=":cigarrito">




<img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/palomitas.gif ALT=":palomitas"> <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/palomitas.gif ALT=":palomitas">

</p>Editado por: <A HREF=http://p216.ezboard.com/bmundodvd43132.showUserPublicProfile?gid=gn0m4>Gn0 m4</A>* fecha: 30/3/05 0:31

HD ready



<img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/grin.gif ALT=":D">

</p>

Gn0m4:

He intentado leerme lo del firmware, si estuviera en inglés sí... pero en francés no me entero. Si puedes explicar que mejoras aporta la nueva versión y si vale la pena sería ideal. <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/smug.gif ALT=":sonrison">

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esa captura de que peli es ????

la ultima

saludos

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Davipe, esta noche lo intento, porque yo de conocimientos de Frances tambien estoy nulo y ahora mismo me tengo q ir a currar.

Tito, StarWars III

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<blockquote>Quote:<hr> esa captura de que peli es ????

la ultima<hr></blockquote>
Star Güars Episodio 3.

Puedes descargar esa imagen junto con otras la mar de bonitas aquí.

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Otro screenshot de una de mis pelis HD <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/palomitas.gif ALT=":palomitas">
(Esta foto la sacare con camara, para q veais lo impresionante q puede llegar a ser verla en 1:1 pixelperfect + Avisynth + Pana tuneado.





Todavia estoy asi <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/babas.gif ALT=":babas"> <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/babas.gif ALT=":babas"> <img src=https://www.mundodvd.com/forum/emoticons/babas.gif ALT=":babas">

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El asunto está claro a falta de un detalle: el cable necesario. Según ese foro francés, se puede actualizar a través del conector VGA (Dsub15) del proyector mediante un cable especial que convierte el VGA en RS232 (puerto serie del ordenador). Te dan las instrucciones paso a paso y el software necesario.
1.- Enciendes el proyector.
2.- Pulsa el botón menú
3.- Pulsa sobre OPCIONES
4.- Sobre la línea OSD pulsa ENTER durante 3 segundos.
5.- Aparece el menú EXT OPCION, sobre la línea HD OVERSCAN pulsar ENTER durante 3 segundos.
6.- Aparece el menú EXT OPCION 2, sobre la línea RS-232C seleccionar la opción D-SUB
7.- Pulsar el botón menú las veces necesarias hasta salir del menú.
8.- Apagar el proyector y esperar a que se pare el ventilador. Dejarlo en Stand-by.
9.- Conectar el cable al conector VGA del proyector y al puerto serie del ordenador.
10.- Encender el PC y ejecutar el programa que contiene el firmware 1.07 cuyo enlace está aquí:
kristahl.design.free.fr/d...ae700s.zip
11.- Elegir el puerto correspondiente COM1 o 2 donde lo tengamos conectado.
12.- Pulsar el botón PROGRAM LOAD para cargar el firmware (AE700_107.MOT) en memoria. Esperar un poco a que se cargue.
13.- Pulsar el botón SOFTWARE UPDATE y esperar a que aparezca la ventana Finished soft update.
14.- Una vez terminado, cerrar la aplicación, quitar el cable del proyector. Apagar el botón off del proyector.
15.- Poner el proyector en on, encenderlo y comprobar el cambio de firmware: MENU, OPCIONES, OSD 3 segundos, y seleccionar SELF CHEK, deberá salir algo como R1.07 Axx.xx Pxx.xx
Confíar en el éxito del proceso. El problema principal está en conseguir el cable, pero parece que están trabajando en ello. Estaremos atentos.

Nota:
Este enlace es para el programa Adjustment Tool, que nos puede servir para comprobar la comunicación con nuestro proyector antes de hacer nada:
kristahl.design.free.fr/d...ae700s.zip

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