Re: Fotos con filtro B&W
Y mas noticias se suceden en los foros extranjeros, al parecer nuestro proyector ha sido y sigue siendo un Boom !
De la mano del forero q nos paso las mediciones de Smart III con el filtro, nos llegan nuevas noticias interesantes:
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Quote:<hr>Congrats to everyone who got the B+W or Heliopan filters and are enjoying the results. All forumites love finding something that improves their toys especially when the cost is pretty low.
Now I know it's been a while since I posted on the tweak thread about using various free filters from Lee and Roscolux but it's been quite a wait for me too. First, I was waiting for my PJ to return from the fw update, then I had to wait for my Smart III package because it was backordered, then after receiving it, I got word that ver 2.0 was finally ready and I waited for the email to download that. After receiving that, I tried registering the meter that comes with the package to receive the default values and found out that I had to wait a little longer because Steve Smallcombe had made a few adjustments to the relationship calcs for the measurements.
Well, after all that, I finally got it working and tried it out last night. First off, Gotta say that anyone who might be thinking about getting Smart III should definitely do it. One of the big differences between Smart III and Colorfacts or the OpticOne system is ease-of-use. The other 2 being made for pro use are a lot simpler and faster, but the Smart system gives pretty good results too. If you have $2000-$3000 in your pocket, Colorfacts or OpticOne would be great but for just under $300, Smart is a bargain. The biggest things to consider about buying one of these systems is that
a) As some people have found and others have mentioned time and again, there can be sufficient variation PJ to PJ for one user's D65 settings to not work for another.
b) Although you might calibrate to D65 now, as the UHP bulb ages, the color spectra tends to shift so after an additional few hundred hours, you have to recalibrate to achieve D65 again. When you change the bulb, you'll have to recalibrate again because some people after testing several new bulbs found variances even between new bulbs.
A minimum of 3 calibrations necessary would make the Colorfacts rental cost $900, where with Smart III, you can keep using the system to recalibrate (or to calibrate your new upgrade projector some time down the road)
That being said, the real reason I wrote this post is to give some of the filter tweakers an option. The last time I used Colorfacts, I managed to get a 2000:1 CR using a free filter from Lee. (Pale Gold with Video mode). I now have the entire range of free filters from Lee, Roscolux and GamColor and will use Smart III ver2.0 to try to see if there is a free filter that can match or possibly exceed the results obtained by BradBissell who also used Smart to calibrate with.
Since the absolute black floor is limited by the PJ from its light leakage, the only real way to increase the CR is to start with the brightest modes. Granted, all the modes in default settings still have room to lower the black floor by reducing the RGB Bias settings, but once you do that, the only way to increase CR is to maximize the brightness of the higher IRE's.
Last night I tried some trial measurements of Video, Normal and Dynamic modes and they all have their quirks. Dynamic is by far the brightest to start with and I tried measuring that mode after maxing the RGB contrast and minimizing the RGB bias. I also tried something that I unfortunately neglected to try the last time I had Colorfacts available and that was to measure the different color temp settings available. In another thread where another user used Colorfacts to check the AE700, they found that the color temp settings not only seriously affected the RGB output but could actually flip the primaries that were overblown. I had simply assumed that the color temp settings only increased/decreased R and B at a fairly standard rate but after measuring the different color temps, that turns out to NOT be the case!
For measuring and calibrating a PJ, Smart III is great, but for serious filter tweaking, its one downside begins to show. Smart III takes a lot more time for a measurement run. Having to measure not only the different modes but different color temp settings of each mode starts to get really tedious. The 7 hours I spent last night only got me complete IRE measurements for the Video mode that I had already tweaked, the Normal mode with Color temp 0 and Dynamic with color temp 0.
I then tried to see if I could maybe use a shortcut by measuring only the 0 and 100 IRE windows at all the color temp settings for Video, Normal and Dynamic with all the RGB settings maxed at opposite ends and used that to calculate the required attenuation by the filter, seeing how I was looking to minimize 0IRE and maximize 100IRE. I then went through the SED (Spectral Emission Distribution) graphs of all the filters I had on hand that could properly attenuate the differences I had measured between RGB in the 3 modes at 0 and 100 IRE at all the available color temp settings. I also had to calulate the percentage differences between RGB for all the different settings in all the modes at both 0 and 100IRE to find the mode and setting that had what looked like the most standard deviation to use the filters with. I found 4 that looked pretty good for Dynamic at color temp -2. After measuring all the filters at 0 and 100 IRE on Dynamic -2 one filter hit it perfectly! Matching all the attenuations with the RGB contrast maxed and Biases minimized. I was ecstatic and finally, in the wee hours of the morning I made a full measurement run with the filter and there found that my search wasn't over.
As it turned out from what I and others had previously found, the gamma on Dynamic is a little weird, and the color temp -2 does some weird things to the RGB output. The filter I had picked perfectly attenuated the pciture from 0-20IRE and 80-100IRE black was black and white was pure white, but everything in between was completely pink. I had made the assumption (after being tired of making individual measurements) that the UHP lamp's red deficiencies should be pretty even between 0 and 100 IRE when the primaries were maxed out. In retrospect, I forgot that the graphs always tended to show a predominance of blue and shortage of red at 0-20 IRE and at 80-100IRE, meaning the red levels tend to be higher and comparably not deficient between 20 and 80 IRE so it's back to the drawing board.
Unfortunately, I won't have the chance to measure and tweak anymore over this weekend, but I've set Monday night aside to do more serious measuring and tweaking. From the outlook of it, as I said before, after examining the SED for the KR6 81EF filters vs the color charts for the AE700, I am positive that there are superior filters for attentuating the maxed primaries and with all the filters I have with their SEDs, I intend to find one.
So tweakaholics, stay tuned! <hr></blockquote>
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ensando"> Esa es la sensación que me ha dado en algunas escenas que he pasado de Gladiator (viraban al azul) y Matrix Reloaded.
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"> . Whatever, this is the mode that zooms only vertically. It keeps the width of the projected image unchanged. So what you end up with is a 2.35:1 (Cinemascope) picture filling the whole 16:9 AE-700 screen i.e. using all the pixels. Of course, due to the differences in the aspect ratios between 2.35:1 (actually 64:27) and 16:9 everyone looks tall and skinny, circles are egg-shaped etc... the geometry's wrong.