Re: Service manual
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Quote:<hr>Page 19 of the manual (Setting the display format).
1. Press Display Format button to select your connection (DVI, RGB, comp. etc). It cycles each time you press the button.
2. Press the Select button to accept your connection.
3. Press the Display Format button to cycle through all the possible output format res. (1080i, 720p, 480p, etc) This depends on the connection. See page 19 for list.
4. Press select to accept.
After tweaking all screens for minimal flicker, I've found that 2 screens in service mode help check your settings. When you enter service mode, the first screen is just flat bright white. Hit the up button on the remote to go to the first screen up, if flicker is a little off this white lined screen will flicker. The next screen up has horizontal lines and does not flicker easily but the next one up (3 button presses up from service default) after that which I think shows individual pixels and is effective for sharpest focus also has a tendency to flicker when the flicker settings are off. If these screens are showing flicker, and you then toggle between the red, green and blue screens by hitting the left or right buttons, you will see that the green is usually the one flickering. If they flicker, go into flicker mode, tweak and recheck.
After watching a movie, you are not "required" go into standby mode. The projector lamp and fan can stay on as long as you need them to be on. If you want to shut it down, you can turn the projector off using the remote or the top-panel button on the PJ. Once turned off via either method, the lamp goes out and the fan still runs to cool it down. Then the fan shuts off automatically when the temp is low enough. At this point you are in "standby mode." There is a red LED on the top panel that is lit to tell you this. No lamp power, no fan, but the projector is ready to accept commands from the top panel or the remote.
At this point, you can reach around to the back of the PJ and turn off a hard switch to kill power to the PJ completely, or you can do the same via a power surge strip, a switched wall outlet, or just unplugging it. In this "power off at the mains" mode, the PJ is completely off and unresponsive to any commands.
This is the status that many owners must leave the PJ in, to ensure no problems with VB upon powering back on. Some owners have reported that they do not need to do this power off at the mains and that VB is minimal or non-existent even when they leave in standby mode for several hours.
As far as I know, the competitive projectors to the AE700 can be left in standby without VB or other problems.
Even though this "VB with standby" issue for me has become a serious annoyance and inconvenience, I would not trade the AE700 in for the Sony HS51 or Sanyo Z3. The main advantages of the AE700 for me are the smooth screen technology coupled with the highly room-flexible 2x zoom lens and lens shifting mechanism that gives an overall winning value package for a home theater high-def projector.
I have Memory #3 on the 700 set up specifically for B&W films. I have the color adjusted all the way down and the temp at -1. I think I also turned the "Red Brightness" down to -3 in the advance menu. These settings also help (a little) with the color uniformity issues mentioned in previous posts. Now - when I watch a B&W film I just click on memory #3 and I'm good to go.
The AE700 automatically "upconverts" 480i/p internally to 720p for display on its native 1280x720 panels.
Tweaks
(Just remember to record the values you started with from the factory so you can go back if needed.)
1. Flicker tweak. Get into the options menu and highlight OSD. Hold down the enter button for 3 seconds to get into the service menu Once you are there, highlight the flicker tweak and hit enter. You will see the screen go to different colors as you hit the up or down button. A value will be at the bottom of the display that can be adjusted right or left. Every projector is different so adjust until you see the least flicker in each one of the color modes. This tweak has a lot of positives in eliminating many erroneous artifacts like peekaboo scanlines and vertical banding. I want to emphasize older PlayStation2s seem to have a problem with the AE700 in showing massive VB when in progressive mode. My simple fix was to turn off the progressive scan on the PS2 altogether. It totally eliminated the VB. I feel the upscale from the projectors scaler is almost as good as the progressive scan from the ps2. This seems to be working for some old DVD players as well.
2. Sharpness adjustment. Get into the service menu the same way and hit the service menu button. The up, down, left and right buttons will scroll through colors and adjustment screens. I found the crosshatch pattern in white to work the best for adjusting the sharpness. Get as close as you can to the screen or have someone help you at the screen. Turn the focus on the projector ring until it becomes perfectly sharp. If you want to defocus slightly for any screen noise, that is fine too. I personally find that setting the sharpness in the main picture menu to -2 does a better job at giving you a more filmlike picture without losing subtle details. If you notice a small amount of red or or blue fringing, that is probably normal. Mine at 110" was less than a couple mm in red fringing. It does not affect the picture on any regular source.
3. The most accurate colors (for movies) with the least effort can be achieved by using "Natural" picture mode with color temperature set to -1.
You can access the service menu by:
Press Menu->Option
highlight "OSD"
Hold "ENTER" down for 3 seconds
There is an entry in the service menu called "Service Mode" which provides many helpful test images. They can be used to check for stuck & dead pixels, as well as panel alignment and other potential problems. [NOTE: There is also a second service menu which can be accessed by holding down "ENTER" for three seconds while the "Pic Shift" selection is highlighted in the first service menu. The limited settings in that menu do not seem as useful.]
FIRMWARE. Panasonic has released new firmware. Version 1.05 and higher fix several known problems. You can check your firmware version in the service menu under 'Self Check'.
The service menu differences between firmware 1.03 and 1.05 are underlined below:
FREEZE MSG (on)
HD OVERSCAN (off)
RUNTIME PRT (on)
FAN FULLMODE (off)
AUTO SETUP (normal)
SELF CHECK
SERVICE MODE
FLICKER ADJ
SD LEVEL (c)
525p OS (off)
HDCP1 (a)
HDCP2 (on)
Flicker tweak. This tweak is a response to vertical banding (VB) problems. VB consists of translucent vertical lines across your screen (like jail bars). They are often more noticeable when the content you are projecting consists of large, lighter, solid colors. In movies, VB could become apparent in a scene where smoke, fog, or sky fills the screen.
Look for "FLICKER ADJ" in the service menu. Settings vary unit to unit, but several people have experienced improved (lessened) VB after LOWERING the default flicker values even if you do not see flickering on them in this service menu. Make sure you adjust for the mode you are using, or all modes (desk/ceiling). My settings are Red&Blue=23, Green=26.
You can further reduce VB by switching the power off on the unit when you are done using it instead of leaving it in standby. Several theories have been proposed to explain why cutting the power lessens or eliminates VB, but no one is 100% sure why it works. I have hard wired my projector to a wall switch for this very purpose. VB can be reduced by powering down your 700 completely by using the master on/off switch (or by some other means). In doing this, along with switching to an interlaced signal - VB has been reduced (in my case) to just an occasional minor annoyance. VB was my only major complaint with the 700.
Several people have suggested scenes in movies to test your unit for VB problems. I have found nothing better/simpler than projecting a full screen solid color - several colors are good for this, I use a bluish gray, RGB=58/110/165
[NOTE: Many users have reported that "flicker" and also "VB" stabilize over time. After 200 hours I can confirm similar observations on my unit. There is less flicker and less VB now than when the unit was newer.]
Overscan is a problem for both VGA and HDMI inputs but can be easily eliminated with tweaking on the VGA input, and possibly eliminated on the HDMI input IF you have firmware version 1.05 or higher(?) - early reports say this is not the case however.
Using the Video setting and a filter you can obtain a much higher contrast ratio and overall brightness while maintaining accurate colors. Without a filter and in Normal/Cinema1 the highest contrast ratio I've measured is 900:1 even with the dynamic iris. In Video mode with a filter, you can reach 2000:1 as per Cine4home.com's calibration.
My spreadsheet tells no lies. You enter three parameters only: current screen size, current throw, and proposed new throw. The spreadsheet then tells you in plain English how much brightness you lose or gain from the relocation. As the examples above show, it's quite stunning how much efficiency you can lose (or gain) from just a small move.
Move the pj a couple of feet closer if you can, because you have the contrast enhancing filter disable dynamic shutter, switch to high lamp mode, use DYNAMIC or VIDEO MODE, increase contrast rather than decrease brightness when cutting out the pink from the filter, use the souped-up output from your DVD player and you've turned night into day. Note that moving the pj 2 feet closer is almost equal to going from LOW to HIGH lamp mode. Adjusting the colors is greater in affecting brightness (at least in this instance) than changing lamp modes.
Here are the "AussieBob" dynamic settings I used with my "Light Salmon" Lee filter.
PICTURE MENU
PICTURE MODE: DYNAMIC
CONTRAST: +4
BRIGHT: 0
COLOR: -4
TINT: 0
SHARP: -4
COLOR TEMP: 0
DYNAMIC IRIS: ON
ADVANCED MENU
GAMMA HIGH: 0
GAMMA MID: +3
GAMMA LOW: +3
CONTRAST R: -10
CONTRAST G: 0
CONTRAST B: 0
BRIGHT R: -5
BRIGHT G: 0
BRIGHT B: 0
Lee filters information can be obtained from
www.leefilters.com. The US site is
www.leefiltersusa.com. Look up the closest dealer in your area. I found nearby dealers that I can buy from or order from. You can ask for a free filter swatch book from Lee or any Lee dealers and they'll send it to you for free. I got the swatch book but it didn't have Light Salmon, only Pale salmon. A sheet (18"x18"??) of Light Salmon #109 was $5.50. You only need a tiny portion of that sheet. I also bought a 77mm Cokin adapter and filter holder for ~$13 on ebay. The 77mm ring fits exactly to the AE700 and the filter holder slides onto the ring.
Lamp life up to 3000 hrs.
Replacement lamp cost: $360.00
This projector is virtually noiseless. We had people sitting 1 foot away and could not hear anything.
The I/O switch kills the power right as it enters the unit...same as unplugging the cord or cutting off the power outlet with a wall switch. You must wait until the fan stops (Standby begins when fan stops) to kill the power whichever way you want to (back panel I/O switch, switched wall outlet, power surge strip, unplugging, etc.)
AVWH settings, using Avia and B&W filter:
Lamp: High
Mode: Video
Contrast: +12
Bright: -15
Color: -11
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +1
Color Temp: On
Dynamic Iris: On
Advanced Menu:
Gammas: 0
Contrast:
R: 0
G: +5
B: +4
Bright:
R: -2
G: -2
B: -3
EXT options 2 - service menu:
Press OSD for 5 sec (Now you are in EXT options 1)
And then press PIC.SHIFT for 5 sec (Now you are in EXT options 2)
Then you get 4 new options, which includes an iris option.
"color Beseler" "Anti-Static Cloth works like a charm to clean the AE lens. Not only does it remove the dust, but it somehow gives it an antistatic property, which repels dust. In reading the literature that came with the cloth, it includes cleaning lenses as one of the things it’s intended to do.
Since the dust filter slides out of the bottom of the AE700, I decided to make an access hole in my shelf. This means I can remove and clean the filter every 100 hours (per the manual) without disturbing the PJ alignment. Saves a lot of time and hassle by not having to re-align the PJ after every cleaning.
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